This city, 760km/495 miles southeast of Havana, is busy and not particularly attractive. But if you pass through, look in on the main square for its Art-Deco theatre, art gallery, and eclectic display of historical exhibits inside the Museo Provincial. The fine Carlos de la Torre Natural History Museum, just south of the square on Calle Maceo, in another colonial mansion, has a large collection of indigenous snail shells in dazzling colours.